For the people of Opobo in the coastal region of Rivers State, December 31st and January 1st of every year are the two most important days of their calendar. From the four corners of the earth, they arrived in a homecoming that dissolves into sizzling festivals of feasts, masquerades, regattas and reunions. And they do not come alone. They come with their families, in-laws, friends and even employees. And for visitors who find their way into the city-state, they discover that night never falls on the city as diverse activities roll into each for a full fortnight.
Two years ago, the city was agog with celebrations of the 150th anniversary of the founding of the kingdom by the famous King Jaja and his allies that moved from the kingdom of Bonny. But last Yuletide, the people of the kingdom had many more reasons to celebrate. At a special thanksgiving held at St. Paul’s Anglican Church, the thanksgiving offering rounds were endless such that the church service that began in the morning lasted till four in the evening.
According to the King of Opobo, Amayanabo Dandison Jaja, the people had good reasons to thank God for the favours that came their way in the year 2022. Starting from himself, who bagged national and state honours, the king said many other glorious things happened to Opobo in 2022.
Speaking at a special thanksgiving at St. Paul’s Anglican Church, King Jaja said, “All of you know I am not used to dress like this. But today is a special day and you see me with some medals, which I did not get from the army. But they are Federal Government and State honours that were bestowed on me.”
He rolled out some of the good fortunes that came the way of the people in a special address to include the enthronement of an Opobo priest as the Bishop of the Niger Delta Diocese, the very first time an Opobo person has been made a bishop since 150 years that the church came to the kingdom; the elevation of two Opobo women as assistant inspectors-general of the police, the appointment of two Opobo sons as commissioners at the same time, the nomination of an Opobo son as the governorship candidate of the ruling Peoples Democratic Party in Rivers State and the completion of the road link between Opobo and mainland Rivers State.
“Last year was especially glorious day for Opobo kingdom. We had so much blessing from Almighty God that we cannot afford not to dedicate a day or form a mass to thank this God who has been so merciful to us, who has shown us so much grace.
“I don’t know where to start. Since the Niger Delta Diocese was created we have never had a bishop. Last year, we had a bishop, Bishop Dr E.O. Oko-Jaja. He is the diocesan now of Niger Delta for the first time since it was created. By the way, Niger Delta Diocese is the third diocese that was created in Nigeria within the Anglican Communion. So, you can see how old the diocese has been. And it’s only last year that we were able to get a bishop.
“The same last year, we had two women promoted to the rank of AIG from Okonu Polo. We had two commissioners in the state executive. We have never had that before. And last year too, we had me standing being honoured by the Federal Government with the third highest rank of honour, CFR, Commander of the Order of the Federal Republic. And the same last year, I was also honoured by the state with the state honour of DSSRS, Distinguished Service Star of Rivers State. I can go on and on and on.
“And the same last year, God nominated a son of this kingdom to become the Governor of this state. He has done it. I am sure he will perfect it. So, why is it that we cannot come out and dance and thank this God that has been so merciful to us. He has not finished with us. I felt that things were coming in droves last year as if Opobo Kingdom is the only kingdom in Nigeria. Last year too, we had our son elevated to the position of a Senior Advocate of Nigeria. That is not a mean feat in the legal profession.”
Beyond the thanksgiving and celebrations of the good fortunes that came the way of the people of Opobo in 2022, the year end festivities came with a lot of fun beginning from December 24th when the Queen, Her Majesty Prudence Jaja led a road walk/jogging by Opobo women, the town went through vivacious programme of activities that included marathon, masquerade performances, Biribite/Egerebite (womanhood) rites celebrations, marriage rites, various cultural performances, social club meetings, Polo and war Canoe House annual meetings and social parties.
At the smaller island town of Queens Town, about five minutes sail from Opobo, an Egerebite/Bibite ceremony was being performed by Mrs. Peace Raphael Uranta to formally usher her into womanhood. While her guests who travelled by boat to the ceremony sit to lavish entertainment, her happy husband takes rounds to spray her cash as she dances in company with her friends.
The climax of the events is the display of the Nwaotam Masquerade, which begins at midnight of the 31st of December and ends at the midnight of the 1st of January. The highpoint of the masquerade display is when the Nwaotam masked being climbs on a rooftop and eventually jumps down to applause and jubilation of the people.
“Nwaotam is a symbolic ritual of renewal. When the Nwaotam climbs the roof it does nor climb for himself as a masquerade. It climbs for the entire Opobo and Igbani nation. Their aspirations are hanging in the air with the Nwaotam. The New Year is up in the cloud with the Nwaotam. Until it jumps down successfully the year has not begun. So, the jumping of the Nwaotam from the roof down is a demonstration of heaven’s blessings coming from the sky down to the people. That is why it is bery very culturally sanctioned for an Opobo son or daughter not to be home to participate in this,” according to Amaopusenibo Bobo Brown, a high chief of Opobo. The year end events begin to wind down after the Nwaotam masquerade jumps down successfully from the rooftop.
At each of these events, there is so much to eat and drink. The streets are pouring with cheerful people both and young; homes are open to distant family members and visitors alike, as every compound is busy with people slaughtering chicken, goats and cows for cooking. It is also time for love relationships among the young and even the old but young at heart. In spite of the heavy drinking that comes with the festivities, cases of violence or injury is rare. Amaopusenibo Brown says the gods and ancestors of Opobo enter into every drink on December 31st and January 1st and neutralize the alcoholic effects in them as the people move around.
The entire stretch of Opobo waterfront is another attraction. Lined from beginning to the end are barbecues and open fireplaces where suya and roast fish are made and sold to fun seekers that cool off in nearby drinking spots. Boat services to Ikot Abasi, Queens Town, Epellema and Minimah are available all day. For those who miss the flamboyant boat regattas that takes place on the 31st, the beautifully adorned boats and canoes still line up the waterfront overlooking the Opobo estuary.
Visitors in Opobo could not hide the excitement and the hospitality of the Opobo people. Ibiso Martins, who hails from Bakana in Degema Local Government Area who was guest of his Opobo friends, had so much admiration for Opobo hospitality and culture. “I have come to Opobo. And I have come to accept Opobo as my second home because whenever I come to Opobo, I find peace, joy, happiness and all that.”
Continuing he said, “I have gone round and I discovered that they have been able to instill their tradition in people including visitors that came to visit them.”
Martins even talked about the accommodating spirit of the Opobo people who allow visitors to partake freely in their cultural performances. “As we were going round, people were saying that the traditional plays that have been going on have been hijacked by visitors, by strangers. That would tell you that the community is welcoming because if you are not welcoming you won’t allow strangers to come in and also be part of your tradition.
“For me, they have been able to uphold their tradition to an extent that it has also helped to create a peaceful cohesion; peaceful coexistence. When you go round, you find peace and joy everywhere. And that’s what we are lacking in other communities.”
He noted a unique respect for elders and the traditions by the younger folks. “In Opobo here, there are ways you talk to a Senibo, a Warisenibo. For me as a stranger, I am very careful. Infact, yesterday when I went to my friend’s compound, I noticed that there were some Senibos seated. I had to come back. I was waiting for my friend to come. I wanted to ask how to approach these people so that you don’t make a mistake. Their tradition has been able to help instill discipline, peace understanding and love. And I wish other communities will be able to learn from what we are having here.”
Efiok Obong, an in-law of the Opobos from Uyo, Akwa Ibom State, who came in from Newcastle in the United Kingdom, says though he came to visit his own in-laws, he had fun in virtually all the homes that he entered. “I just came in with my wife to have fun. Opobo is lovely, peaceful. Everything you can everly dream of within Nigeria is in Opobo. I love Opobo and I enjoyed very well. And I can’t wait to explore the whole Opobo.
“Actually, I have had fun. I met different families. They all offered me food, drinks and everything. So, I really enjoyed every minute of my stay. Every minute in Opobo is massive. It is brilliant; it is lovely. I can’t wait to stay here for like 10, 20 years from now.”
Amaopusenibo Brown explains the year end activities. “We grew into it and over the years, it has made the kingdom stronger. If an Opobo son or daughter is not at home by the 31st of December questions would be asked if the person is well or not. Or could the person be in jail because any free indigene knows what 31st December means and what 1st of January means,” he says.
He says the end of year activities were deliberately designed from the founding of the kingdom in 1870. “It starts from December 24th. Every War Canoe house you pass through has a flag pinned. It is pinned at the entrance to the War Canoe house, in the centre of the War Canoe House and at the exit gate. That identifies and autonomous political unit of the kingdom. It is a unit of governance, a unit of economic productivity, a unit of community mobilization and a unit of solidarity for better performance and progress of each unit within the kingdom.
“So, on December 24th, every War Canoe House would bring down the flag. But also bring down something else that is equally symbolic. In our culture, the flag and the Ekere at every gate house are the symbols of autonomy of a chieftaincy house. They are brought down on December 24th for every Chieftaincy House.
“The 14 founding houses of Opobo are called Polo. In those 14 founding houses, the full compliments of the Ekere would be there. And the Ekere is beaten on December 24th. It is called Ekere Fari (the beating of the Ekere) to remind us of the origin of the kingdom.
“When they beat that Ekere, there are seven wooden drums that are arranged in tonal order from descending to ascending. And then they are beaten in rhythm to convey Igbani messages where they call the names of the founding fathers; they call the names of War Canoe Houses; they call the names of ancestral personalities. They must have drum names. When those drum names are beaten the sons and daughters of the War Canoe House respond. If you are passing, you answer. If you are coming from a different War Canoe House and you are passing through a gatehouse where they are beating the Ekere Fari and they know you, they call your ancestral drum name. If you cannot answer it, you are put to shame. If you name the name, you answer to the Ekere.
“So, it begins that day and then several masquerades perform between the 26th and the 31st. On the 31st, there is the Nwaotam Regatta where all the dance troupes that would participate in the Nwaotam Festival hit the sea and perform the Regatta Display to bring the spirit of the Nwaotam home to the land.
“So, when they land by 6.30pm on December 31st, the Nwaotam spirit covers the land like the harmattan breeze. And so you come to January 1st or 2nd (when January 1st is a Sunday) as was the case this year. When this play finishes today, the masquerade season starts tomorrow for the New Year.
“The Owu Ogbo Group would take over. They regulate the town masquerades. These ones would run until 31st of January. In between, the various War Canoe Houses would squeeze in their own masquerades. So, Opobo kingdom has a 30, 31-day solid festive display for the season.”
As the general elections approach, many young Opobo people are upbeat. Their son Siminalayi Fubara, an Amaopusenibo, is the governorship candidate of the ruling Peoples Democratic Party. If he wins, he will become the next governor of the oil-rich Rivers State. “All these places will change when SIM, as the candidate is called, becomes governor,” says a hopeful youngster prancing about the marina overlooking the Utilities’ Board. And as if the people already envisage it, the entire island is flooded with banners, posters and billboards of the PDP candidate. Opobo was a major powerhouse in the 19th century when it controlled a major chunk of the oil palm trade between the Niger Delta and Europe.
